Beauty was best when colored outside the lines during the Spring/Summer 2020 Fashion Weeks. From New York to Paris, the bold Gen Z looks seen on the hit HBO show Euphoria became a back- stage staple, with new expressionist shapes taking over eyes. The trend ranged from subtle–a wash of a color in the creases like at Chromat— to striking, with dreamy cloudscapes that expanded from brow to lash line at Mansur Gavriel, glitter that trickled onto cheeks and blended seamlessly into creamy blush at Pyer Moss, or undulating liner that purposely missed the expected mark as seen at Anna Sui and Rosie Assoulin, and bright tropical color blocking at Oscar de la Renta.
More after-party than party-ready, next season’s looks have a lived-in feel that conjures a devil may care attitude. At TommyXZendaya, a collaboration between Tommy Hilfiger and actress Zendaya, dramatic lips and smokey eyes were a nod to a bygone punk heyday. Yet at Rebecca Minkoff, grunge grew up–and took a seat at the table. Creating a low messy bun with a touch of dye left over from a weekend at a music festival, stylist Justine Marjan proved edginess
carries over just as seamlessly into the boardroom Spring/Summer 2020 had no shortage of stunning looks, from Jem and the Holograms inspired hair and makeup at Jeremy Scott, to a chic take on what’s best described as a Marge Simpson mane at Thom Browne. Upping the ante, Stylist Guido Palau raised the bar at Tomo Koizumi (literally), creating a conical-shaped style. “I knew the look had to be something really extreme–either height or length, and I went for height!” he explained.
With so much in-your-face style, the runways resembled the era of excess. Eighties everything reigned supreme–even, dare we say it–the mullet. The revamp of the “business in the front, party in the back” style was spotted at Givenchy, Paul & Joe and Ralph & Russo, indicating that there’s no use fighting the shape of the season.
If designers hadn’t already said it with hair and makeup, nails made a statement–and then some. Backstage at The Blonds, CND created theatrical nails that perfectly complemented the Moulin Rouge themed collection with bedazzled reds, matte blacks and blinged-out golds visible from the back of the house. Pearl tipped nails at Alice + Olivia by Stacey Bendet were at once ornate, elaborate and surprisingly delicate.
Spring/Summer 2020 proved the most important trend is taking charge of your look and owning it. As the weather warms up, consumers won’t shy away from the unexpected, whether it’s longer nails, higher hair, expressionist eyes or an edgy cut so make sure to carry bold color cosmetics and hair products with hold.
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